| If you have a romantic heart and an adventurous | | | | the sheik on his mobile and we were invited over for |
| spirit, then you have to ride an Arab horse across | | | | coffee in his tent. We asked if we could meet the |
| the desert of Wadi Rum at least once in your | | | | women of the tribe and the female riders only were |
| lifetime. | | | | allowed into their separate part of the tent. We |
| Wadi Rum, in the far south of Jordan, is also known | | | | communicated with the women in sign language and |
| as Valley of the Moon. It is an enchanting place | | | | by drawing pictures and realized that we had the |
| where massive rocky outcrops rise majestically out | | | | same wants and needs whatever culture we come |
| of the desert floor. The rocks have the appearance | | | | from. I felt that we had witnessed something very |
| of melting chocolate and the colours in the sandstone | | | | special that the normal tourist doesn't usually see. |
| are like a muted earthy rainbow. It is a landscape like | | | | At the end of each long day in the saddle, when we |
| no other. | | | | were tired and hungry, the cook and crew had |
| I have ridden twice now in Wadi Rum with Equitour | | | | already set up camp. I was always amazed by the |
| Worldwide Riding Holidays Both trips were spectacular | | | | places they found for us to spend the night. The |
| and different. I met old friends and made new. That | | | | crew consisted of a very good cook and assistant, |
| is the wonderful thing about horses - they bring | | | | horse handlers, maybe a local vet and drivers. There |
| people together who enjoy a challenge whatever | | | | were normally about two or three 4WD pickup |
| their age. | | | | trucks, which carried food and water for the horses, |
| Initially I was anxious about my riding ability and | | | | for the riders and also all our bags and camping |
| crossing the sort of terrain described in the brochure. | | | | equipment. They stayed discreetly out of the way |
| I remember on the first trip, the briefing session was | | | | when we were riding unless needed for water etc |
| held in a fabulous Bedouin style restaurant in the | | | | and they went on ahead to find resting places and |
| capital Amman. I thought that I was the most | | | | overnight campsites. Sometimes a rider decided a |
| inexperienced rider of the whole group and asked | | | | rest was needed and so swopped their horse for a |
| Ishmael, who owns the local tour company out there, | | | | seat in one of the trucks. |
| to make sure that I had a very quiet horse. | | | | Camping was the most wonderful fun and I was |
| The next day we left Amman and set off in a mini | | | | surprised at how everyone forgot about their |
| bus down the Desert Highway, which is the main | | | | complex lives at home and wanted to stay in the |
| motorway through Jordan, from Syria to Saudi | | | | desert forever with few or little possessions. We |
| Arabia. The journey was full of sights new to our | | | | were fed ample freshly cooked food that was |
| Western eyes. We passed convoys of colourful | | | | delicious and wine, beer and soft drinks were |
| trucks transporting goods to Saudi and at the side of | | | | provided. We all sat around the fire exchanging |
| the highway in the scrubby desert were small | | | | stories and learning about the Bedouin way of life. |
| settlements of concrete very basic single storey | | | | We heard the men singing love songs to the horses |
| dwellings. We could see children running around | | | | to keep them calm. One night, members of a local |
| amongst the goats and donkeys and camels. We | | | | tribe visited us and we had a really enjoyable and |
| passed a local farmer with a camel sitting calmly in | | | | spontaneous evening. We found the Bedouins to be |
| the back of his 4WD Pickup. Our driver waved to | | | | a very proud and hospitable race with a great sense |
| him and he pulled in at the side of the road for us | | | | of humour. |
| take photos of his strange and unconcerned | | | | On each trip, the crew made us a makeshift shower |
| passenger. We stopped at a roadside tourist shop to | | | | so everyone could have a thorough wash. I |
| buy typical Arab scarves known as kufeyyas, which | | | | remember how wonderful it was to feel clean and |
| would prove indispensable against the harsh sun and | | | | refreshed. I sat on a high rocky ledge above the |
| later we picked up some dates and huge blocks of | | | | horses with a can of cold lager to watch the sun go |
| ice from a local supermarket. | | | | down and the colours of the desert change. |
| We arrived at the edge of Wadi Rum and the horses | | | | Although tents were provided, most of us liked to |
| were waiting for us. I looked at them nervously | | | | put our sleeping bags on the rocks or just on the |
| wondering which one would be mine and hoping it | | | | lovely soft sand. I stayed on my high rocky ledge |
| would be very quiet. The tack was a curious affair of | | | | and lay there watching the bright stars shooting |
| blankets and pads covered in fabric your | | | | across the sky and feeling completely at one with |
| Grandmother once had on her settee, plus the saddle | | | | the mysterious nature of Wadi Rum. |
| and a very basic bridle. We were told to sit with legs | | | | At the end of the second trip I sadly said goodbye |
| well forward and reins held high in one hand. The | | | | to my horse and the crew at the edge of the |
| horses responded to body movement and very light | | | | desert. We were taken by minibus to our luxury five |
| neck reining. They jogged in the gait typical of their | | | | star Hotel in Petra near to the famous Nabatean city. |
| breed, which took a bit of getting used to. My mare | | | | I strode into the reception area with its marble floors |
| was very quiet and didn't jog but liked to roll in the | | | | and Persian rugs, feeling hot and sweaty and |
| soft sand without any warning. When we had got | | | | covered in red dust. The staff did not bat an eyelid. |
| used to our horses and the style of riding, we | | | | That night I rolled over and fell out of my king size |
| quickened the pace. Just a shake of the reins and we | | | | bed because I had got so used to sleeping on the |
| were cantering fast across the desert floor, weaving | | | | ground. |
| in and out of the desert broom bushes. It was | | | | The next morning a guided tour of Petra had been |
| exhilarating. | | | | arranged for us. I spent the whole day there and |
| My horsemanship fears soon disappeared and by the | | | | then realized I was late for an appointment at the |
| end of the week, I had progressed from my quiet | | | | famous Brooke Animal Hospital, near the entrance. |
| mare to one of the liveliest horses on the trip. | | | | There was no time to walk so I hired a camel and |
| Each day was different as we rode around the | | | | trotted fast through the ancient city with the owner |
| desert through deep red rock canyons and ascended | | | | running behind me. When the camel reached the |
| the airy heights of enormous rippled dunes. We stood | | | | Treasury I had to leave it but was then given a |
| on the very edge and marveled at the scenery | | | | horse to ride at top speed to the hospital. I just |
| below. We saw the Seven Pillars of Wisdom made | | | | made it in time to have a tour with the Head Vet |
| famous by T.E Lawrence; we found secret water | | | | and give a donation to the charity. Indiana Jones eat |
| springs used only by the Bedouin; we passed camel | | | | your heart out! |
| trains and goat herders; we saw rock paintings | | | | The next day a few of us hired a car and driver and |
| thousands of years old. Only very occasionally did we | | | | were taken down to the famous port of Aqaba on |
| see tourists but most of the time we were on our | | | | the Red Sea. It has one of the finest corral reefs in |
| own. The horses were game and lively and gave the | | | | the world and we spent our last day, before the |
| whole journey a sense of gaiety. When we came to | | | | flight home, snorkeling and relaxing on the beach. It |
| a stretch of flat desert, we galloped all together in | | | | was a fitting end to a fantastic holiday. |
| one long row, one arm raised like Arab warriors | | | | My riding trip to Jordan was over but will never be |
| charging. | | | | forgotten. And hopefully, there will always be another |
| Once we spied a Bedouin tent complete with Toyota | | | | adventure waiting for me out there in the desert. |
| and camels in the distance. One of the crew phoned | | | | |